The My Son ruins, nestled in the jungly mountains outside of Hoi An, comprise the most extensive Cham ruins in Vietnam and are justly listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. My Son was built as a religious and intellectual center during the 4th century, under the rule of Champa king Bhadravarman. The site was continuously occupied until the 13th century, and it is considered a smaller version of Southeast Asia's other Indian-influenced ancient cities, such as Angkor Wat in Cambodia or Ayuthaya in Thailand. Unfortunately, centuries of Chinese, Khmer and Vietnamese fighting, followed by extensive American bombing, destroyed much of the site; today, only about 20 of the original 70 structures remain.
This complex of buildings was constructed from the 4th to the 11th centuries and includes temples dedicated to Shiva and Bhadresvara
Also within the complex are sanctuaries and a storage room for sacred books and ceremonial objects
Intricate carvings decorate the walls of the buildings throughout the complex. Oddly enough, it is the restored sections of buildings that have the most moss; the original Cham bricks (whose composition and method of mortaring are still a mystery) are surprisingly dry, intact and clean.
Altars and columns cover the ground in front of the ruins; notice that these fragments have practically no moss growing on them
The god Shiva stands in a traditional square-cut Cham altar (called a yoni), meant to represent the female form
One of the more intact structures, with a massive yoni inside
A palm tree on the path to My Son, with mist-covered mountains in the background
A palm tree on the path to My Son, with mist-covered mountains in the background
A fisherman sits between his traps on a quiet section of river
A young man rows his elder along in a classic Vietnamese bowl-shaped boat
A lone hut sits along a palm-lined path
White ducks gather in a water-logged field
A Hoi An culinary specialty, the "White Rose" is like an open-faced dumpling
Here I am at a cooking class in Hoi An, shaving long strands of green papaya for a salad
Inside one of the largest caves at the Marble Mountains
Armed with umbrellas, tourists visit one of Hoi An's many historic temples
Incense coils hang from the temple ceiling; in the center of each coil is a yellow card with a prayer
A beautiful flower in the temple courtyard
Hoi An is known for its many skilled tailors; it's impossible to walk through the town without passing several shops
A sea of cyclos wait to take tourists through the Old Town
Two old women sell their wares in front of one of Hoi An's historic homes
The Japanese Covered Bridge, first built in the 16th century, linked the Japanese and Chinese quarters of Hoi An
Women wait with snacks for sale at the entrance to the Japanese Bridge
A woman performs a traditional Vietnamese fan dance at the Hoi An Handicraft Workshop
Hoi An architecture combines classic elements of Vietnamese, Japanese and Chinese styles
The Old Town's bustling riverfront, lined with yellow French colonial buildings
An old man floats along the Thu Bon River, past Hoi An's Old Town
Raindrops adorn a brightly colored flower at the Cham towers
A closer view of the Cham towers, with their distinctive pyramidal roofs. Of the temple's seven towers, only four remain today.
Hon Chong Beach at the northern end of Nha Trang is quieter and less commercial than neighboring Nha Trang Beach
Here I am climbing up the Hon Chong Promontory, an outcropping of granite rocks with gorgeous views of the surrounding coastline and mountains beyond
A woman embroiders a beautiful silk panel at a Nha Trang gallery. I was impressed by the incredible detail and vibrant colors of the finished pieces.
Have helmet, will travel. The motorcycle taxi is ubiquitous throughout Vietnam; here I am ready to ride with my very own new helmet, bought in Saigon.
This large (9m-high) Buddha, seated on a lotus flower, crowns the hill behind Long Son Pagoda
The contented face of Long Son Pagoda's reclining Buddha; Long Son Pagoda was founded in the late 19th century and still serves as a working monastery
Colorful sea critters at the National Oceanographic Museum; the museum also has 60,000 not-so-colorful pickled specimens on display
